What do you get when you combine local beer with local history? One of the best ways to spend your Friday evening…
Leeds has a fascinating history with beer and no one knows that better than Simon Jenkins. As an award-winning writer and veritable beer expert, he’s spent the past few decades drinking his way across the county to produce the 2019 ‘The Yorkshire Beer Bible’. And now he’s bringing his local knowledge to bear on his ‘It’s The Beer Walking’ tour – and we tried it out.
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When the clock hit 5pm on Friday, we hurried across to City Square to meet Simon and his sidekick Nicky Massen (ex-PR for The Tetley) under the statue of the Black Prince. With a few quick fire stops, and after stumbling upon a Zoë Powers’ incredible Mustard Wharf mural, we took a sunset walk down the River Aire to the first pub – The Cross Keys.
We all grabbed a pint of Kirkstall Brewery’s Virtuous (a firm favourite of our social media manager Sophie) and hunkered down in a cosy booth as Simon recounted the story of inventor James Watts. Apparently, he hired rooms here to spy on rival Matthew Murray. Being a history buff, I already knew this story, but it takes on a whole new meaning when you’re sat in the pub where it happened.
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Next, it was time to head over to Temple Works. Standing before Grade I-listed former flax mill, Simon told us about plans to convert the building into the new home of the British Library in the north, as well as the sheep that used to graze on the roof (love that). We went at night, which meant we couldn’t see the building in its full glory, so I’d definitely recommend doing it in the day if you can.
By this point, the Northern Monk Refectory was within eyeshot, and their Great Northern Lager was calling my name. After we’d finished our pint, we went underground to their basement brewing site to see where the magic happens, which was awesome. Full disclosure though, that might have been a Leeds-List perk, I can’t guarantee it’ll happen on every trip!
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What followed was a brisk walk along the canal, passing the illuminated David Oluwale Bridge, Hibiscus Rising and the newly reopened Tetley along the way. As Simon led us into The Adelphi, we were (as always) wowed by its Victorian grandeur, with a sweeping curved facade, intricate stained glass and rich, mahogany wooden tables.
The bar, which stretches along the pub’s central corridor, is stacked with an ever-changing range of ales and lager, but I eventually settled for a pint of Lunar Haze IPA – it was fruity and delicious. As the Tetley’s original flagship pub, this decades old watering hole is steeped in history, and I have to say, it was my favourite pub of the night.
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As always, no crawl is complete without a trip to the oldest pub in Leeds – you guessed it, we were headed to Whitelocks. With a pint of Five Points pale in hand, we finished off the evening by admiring the original copper-topped bar, adorned with sculptured tiles of vibrant yellows and greens – a night well spent if you ask me.
If you’re a beer and history aficionado, a whizz around Leeds with Simon and Nicky is an absolute must. Tickets are priced at £15 per person, not including drinks, and in return you’ll enjoy great company, fascinating snippets of local history and a totally curated experience – it’s a no brainer, really.
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